BREITLING, HANDS-ON Breitling Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition A modern tribute to the Italian aerial squadron, limited to 250 pieces May the 25th 2020, By Victor du Plessis |
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Breitling just announced a new update of its Chronomat collection, which reconnect with the 80's Chronomat line-up.
The new Chronomat chronograps have a modernized design, a new chronometer layout and a modern caliber.
The Breitling Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition is a re-edition of a model celebrating the
famous Italian aerial squadron. The watch has a specific sunburst blue dial color with a green-white-red arrow logo. This model will be limited to 250 pieces only.
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The Chronomat collection was launched in 1984 by Breitling.
The Chronomat chronographs had a 40 mm diameter case, were powered by a Valjoux 7750 and had a 6, 9, 12 o'clock layout and a date window at 3 o'clock.
The unidirectional bezel adopts a diver-style bezel and the bracelet was composed of parallel capsule-shaped metal pieces.
In the 2010's the Breitling Chronomat collection was redesigned.
The chronograph dimensions increased, the watches had a massive 44 mm diameter case.
The dial layout was different, the sub-dials were located at 3, 6, 9 o'clock and the date window at 4.5 o'clock. The watches also came on a modern slide five-link Breitling bracelet.
A chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition was released by Breitling for the 1980s ans well as the 2010s Chronomat collection. This watch is celebrating the Italian aerial squadron "Frecce Tricolori" (Tricolour Arrows), formally known as the 313° Gruppo Addestramento Acrobatico. This Italian squadon with the Patrouille de France were famous for being the acrobatics patrol with the biggest number of planes involved during the show. More than ten planes could compose the squadrons.
In contrast the USA Thundebird and Blue Angels are only composed of four planes.
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The dimensions of the new Chronomat chronograph have been reduced.
The previous collection had a 44 mm diameter and 17.0 mm high stainless steel case.
In comparison the new Breitling Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition has a 42 mm diameter and 13.7 mm high stainless steel case.
That is a good move from Breitling, the chronograph has some presence but is not massive.
The watch wears well on a 16 cm circumference wrist.
The case is satin-brushed finished on top and on the flanks.
The beveled corners running from one lug to the opposite one are polished.
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The tribute to Frecce Tricolori squadron is materialised by a specific dial color and printings.
The Breitling Chronomat Chronograph has a sunburst blue dial and adopts 3, 6, 9 o'clock sub-dial layout.
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The counter 30min-subdial is located at 3 o'clock, whereas the running second subdial is located at 9 o'clock.
The counter 12h-subdial is located at 6 o'clock.
The minute and second tracks are printed in white color on the main dial and sub-dials.
The Hours are indicated by applied faceted rectangular markers on the main dial.
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The hour markers, the dial and sub-dial hands are filled with luminescent material.
The counter weight of the second hand on the main dial is composed of the Breitling "B" with anchor logo.
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A tachymeter scale is printed in black color on the surface of the blue stepped ring at the periphery of the main dial.
On the flank of this ring is printed a 0-100 scale.
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A date window is located at 6 o'clock, inside the counter 12h-sub-dial. The date is printed in silver color on a blue background.
The date window is thus well integrated into the dial design.
"BREITLING" is printed in white color above this sub-dial.
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The Frecce Tricolori logo composed of three side-by-side green, white and red arrows is printed on the blue dial below the 12 o'clock marker.
"P.A.N.", "Frecce" and "tricolori" are printed in silver color just below.
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The watch has a polished steel bezel with satin-brushed fake rider tabs for the 15, 30, 45 and 60 bezel positions.
The rider tabs are reminiscent of the 1980s Chronomat, where these tabs were screwed on the bezel and could be removed.
The purpose of these labs is to serve as markers but also to protect the sapphire glass.
Screws are still visible every 5 minute on the flanck of the modern Chronomat bezel.
The minute track is engraved every minute on the upper part of the bezel, but surprisingly only every five minutes on the lower part.
Less marks make the bezel looks cleaner but this is less practical for daily use.
Arabic numerals are engraved on the rider tabs.
These markers are filled with black paint.
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The screw-down crown is quite massive and adopts a lemon-squeezer shape, like the crown and pushers of the 80's model.
However the counter pushers of the new model look different, they now have a smooth surface.
The crown and pushers are protected by a prominent one-piece crown guard.
Despite its size, this crown guard is well integrated in the watch case.
The watch has a 200M water resistance, which is quite impressive for a chronograph.
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The Breitling Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition is powered by the by the modern in-house B01 caliber.
This self-winding column-wheel chronograph caliber with vertical clutch is COSC certified.
It beats at 28'800 v/h, and has an up-to-date power reserve of 70 h.
The movement can be seen through a sapphire case back.
I appreciate that the column wheel is clearly visible.
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"BREITLING" and "CHRONOGRAPHE CERTIFIE CHRONOMETRE" are engraved and filled with golden color on the rotor.
"ONE OF 250" is engraved on the metal part of the case back.
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The Breitling Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition comes on a rouleaux steel bracelet.
This bracelet is a homage to the 80s Chronomat bracelet, but the link shape is slightly different.
The links of the 80s model were adopting a capsule shape; i.e. each extremity was round.
In contrast the new rouleaux links have a sharp-cut extremity.
The links have satin-brushed finished surface and flanks, whereas the bevels are polished.
One of two links also has two polished inner parts.
The bracelet is closed by a butterfly clasp.
I have to admit that this bracelet may looks bulky but it is very comfortable and it is magnificent.
The links are larger next to the case than next to the clasp.
The bracelet links are well aligned with the case, as well as the
he link polished bevels with those of the case.
The mix of satin-brushed with polished finish is beautiful.
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Verdict
What an improvement!
I have never been a big fan of the previous Chronomat collection,
I always found this model too rough and lacking of elegance.
I was nevertheless impatient to discover the new collection, because Breitling recently surprised me with the gorgeous
Navitimer 806 1959 Reedition and
Premier B01 Chronograph 42.
I have not been disappointed.
The new Chronomat chronograph is magnificent.
The look of the Chronomat has been greatly improved.
The dial is a bit similar to the one of the Premier chronograph.
I am glad the subdials are now at the 3,6,9 positions. It looks so much better than the 6,9, 12 layout.
The bezel looks better, more modern, very sporty, it really differentiate the Chronomat from the Navitimer and the Premier collections.
The watch is powered by a state-of-the-art column-wheel with vertical clutch self-winding in-house caliber.
I also have to say I love the rouleaux bracelet.
It may seem bulky at first glance but it looks awesome and it is comfortable.
The bracelet has a sporty-military look; it's like having an AMMO belt around the wrist.
Concerning the Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition, the silver-blue dial look cool, it is an easy going color.
The Aerial logo is quite subtle, the dial is very clean.
The new Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition is another great release from Breitling.
There is only one negative point. With only 250 pieces produced, it will be very difficult for get one,
Your local AD will most probably only get one, and it is usually already reserved. Good luck.
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Technical specifications |
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Brand
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Breitling
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Model
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Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition (250 pieces) |
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Reference
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AB01344A1C1A1
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Dial
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Sunburst blue
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Bezel
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Unidirectional rotating ratcheted steel bezel
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Case Material
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Steel
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Case Dimensions
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Diameter: 42 mm, Height: 15.10 mm, Lug width: 22 mm
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Crystal
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Cambered sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
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Case Back
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Transparent
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Movement
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Caliber Breitling 01, Self-winding, Power reserve: 70 h,
Jewels: 47, Vibrations: 28'800 v/h (4 Hz), COSC certified
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Water Resistance
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200 M
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Bracelet
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Rouleaux steel bracelet
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Functions
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Centre hands for hours, minutes and counter-seconds, second sub-dial, counter 30-minute subdial, date feature
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Price
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8'100 euro
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