TUDOR, HANDS-ON Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight The Rolex Submariner killer? November the 16th 2019, By Victor du Plessis |
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The Tudor Black Bay divers are great watches but they were a bit bulky. That is now solved.
Tudor developed a new and reduced in-house caliber to perfect the design of the Black Bay line.
The new Tudor model, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, is now smaller and thinner. That is changing everything.
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The Black Bay diver is to Tudor what the Submariner is to Rolex.
This line has been evolving since the re-issue of the line in 2012. The watch was first powered by an ETA caliber and then became
thicker (too thick?) to host the Tudor in-house Tudor caliber MT5602. The watch was 41mm large and 15mm thick.
It is an awesome watch and a great deal for its price range. |
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In 2018 Tudor released the Black Bay Fifty-Eight.
It now has a 39 mm diameter case and it is only 12 mm thick. 3mm less than the previous model makes a huge difference on the wrist.
Put side by side, the harmony of the Fifty-Eight dimensions kills the previous model.
The Lug-to-lug separation is 47.7 mm, the watch wears very well on a 16 cm circumference wrist.
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The Fifty-Eight dial keeps the successful design of the previous Black Bay models.
The watch has a matte black dial, gold-plated applied round indices, except at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock, where they are rectangular and at 12 o'clock, where is located the traditional Tudor triangular index.
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The watch also keeps the famous Tudor snowflake hands. Like the indices, the hands are gold-plated.
The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal.
The watch is a diver. It thus has a unidirectional rotable bezel with 60-minute graduated disc in matte slate black anodised aluminum.
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A red triangle with a gold-plated applied lume pip is localised at the bezel 60min place.
The bezel minutes are painted in gold instead of silver color on the previous model.
The TUDOR rose logo appears in relief on the crown.
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The watch is powered by the new calibre MT5402. Tudor did a great job to reduce the size of the diver caliber.
The new movement is 26mm in diameter and 4.99mm thick, whereas the previous Black Bay calibre MT5602 was 31.8mm large and 6.5mm thick.
The caliber MT5402 features a self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system. No date feature.
The caliber performances are up-to-date: 70h power reserve, anti-magnetic escapement, COSC certification.
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The watch comes on a nice and thick leather strap. A satin-finished steel riveted 3-link bracelet
and a black and beige fabric strap with a gold-coloured band with buckle are also available.
The leather strap and the steel bracelet are both closed by a stainless steel folding buckle.
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As usual there is no transparent case back on the Black Bay but a steel one instead. You will thus not be able to look at the new caliber.
There is traditionally no need to see the caliber on a diver, and thus no need to specialy spend effort and time to decorate the movement. Afteral it is a tool watch, not a dress watch.
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I would however say it is nice to see the movement, especially for checking that everying is turning well and for checking there is no sign of humidity (that is the problem with a diver watches, some people take theme into water).
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It should be noticed that the lug width has been reduced from 22 mm to 20 mm.
That was a good move to keep the proportions of the watch well balanced.
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Verdict
I was a big fan of the Tudor Black Bay line, I especially liked the Black Bay burgundy bezel and the Black Bay Bronze Slate Grey Dial.
I said I was, because with time I found the watches were a bit too chunky.
I feel like Tudor heard me, when they released the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Everything I could dream about was considered: less than 40mm diametre, thinner, upgraded in-house caliber. Was it too good to be true? When I tried the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, I loved it instantaneously. It looks so great. The overal design of the Black Bay has been kept, it is just a bit smaller and thinner, but the results is beyond expectation.
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So is it a Rolex Submariner killer? Surely it it! I mean, its look is closer to the vintage Submariner with aluminum bezel than the actual ceramic bezel Submariner. Many people do not like the Sub ceramic bezel and the current Oyster supercase. For those who especially miss the old Sub models, and do not want to jump into the vintage minefield, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is for you. I want to be clear, not only the Rolex nostalgics will love it, all those who fancy diver watches will love this model.
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I am convinced that Rolex and Tudor realised that the Black Bay Fifty-Eight would hit the sales of the Submariner, especially when this later one is nearly impossible to get in your AD. I think this is the reason why there is also a supply shortage for the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. The watch market can be so frustrating these days... Anyway, Tudor, well done! The new Black Bay Fifty-Eight is the best of the Black Bay models. It is the modern old-Submariner. Tudor did not not take the dressy-sport path but stay true to the diver roots. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight remains a true and performant tool-watch. And for the price, it is a bargain.
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Technical specifications |
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Brand
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Tudor
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Model
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Black Bay Fifty-Eight
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Reference
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79030N
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Dial
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Black domed dial
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Bezel
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Unidirectional rotatable bezel in steel with 60-minute graduated disc in matte black anodised aluminium and pink gilded markings and numerals
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Case Material
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Stainless steel with polished and satin finish
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Case Dimensions
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Diameter: 39 mm, Height: 12 mm, Lug width: 20 mm, Lug-to-lug separation: 47.7 mm
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Crystal
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Sapphire
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Case Back
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Steel
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Movement
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Caliber: MT5402, Power reserve: 70 h, Jewels: 27, Vibrations: 28,800 v/h
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Water Resistance
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200 M
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Bracelet
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Brown leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch |
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Functions
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Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds
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Price
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3'110 euro (leather or nato strap) |
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